Dallas Organic Garden Club

July means many things in Texas: one hundred degree days, smog level red, dead tomato plants, the Rangers’ slump. Fortunately, it also means blueberries. In fact, July is national blueberry month. There are many berry farms within a short drive in towns such as Edam and Athens, where you can pick your own. They freeze very well, so can be enjoyed over cereal or yogurt every day of the year. They also make terrific jams and ice cream toppings. Many of us wish we could grow them ourselves and save the drive, so I reviewed a few publications to see if it is at all feasible. First, here is some information about the history of blueberries. Botanists estimate that blueberries have been around for over 13,000 years, and they are very American. In fact, they are one of only 3 native American berries: Concord grapes, blueberries and cranberries. North America produces >90% of the world’s blueberry supply. One of my partners at work is Brazilian, and had never heard of blueberries, and had never eaten a cranberry, until she moved to the U. S. Legend has it that Native Americans, who revered blueberries, gave them to the new settlers, helping them make it through their first winter. The blossom end of each berry, the calyx, forms the shape of a perfect five-pointed star; the elders of the tribe would tell of how the Great Spirit sent "star berries" to relieve the children's hunger during a famine.

In terms of cultivation, the plants are perennial, deciduous, woody shrubs requiring full sun. They belong to the family Ericaceae, which also includes cranberry, azalea, rhododendron, and heather, so they need very well drained, acidic soil. That’s why so many are grown in East Texas. This is not entirely insurmountable if one lives in black clay. There are 2 options: either move, or plant in containers. In Texas, these are NOT the native lowbush blueberries i.e. “wild blueberries”, found in Maine and Michigan. The varieties grown in Texas are either northern highbush (V. corymbosum) or rabbitteye blueberries. Rabbiteye blueberries (V. ashei) are the main ones described by the TAMU references, as they are most suitable for warmer climates. The name comes from the pink color of the berries before ripening, which looks like a rabbit eye. They still, however, require significant chilling to produce berries. A newer variety, called Southern Highbush blueberries, is more adapted to the warm coastal south, and requires less chilling. Blueberries need a pH range of 4-6. A large container (20-30 gallon) is recommended. Several references reported the need for more than one plant to ensure pollination. Blueberry plants flower in spring, at the tip of canes with the tip of the cluster opening first. They are pollinated by mainly bumblebees. Since they are a native plant, the imported honey bee is not the main pollinator. Development occurs for about 2 to 3 months after bloom. Sugar content of fruit will increase during maturation to about 15 percent when fruit is ripe, so wait a few days after the berries turn blue before picking. The most often recommended variety I came across for Texas is Tifblue, which is a midseason fruiting variety, but it is a very large upright shrub. Sunshine Blue is a Southern Highbush variety that reportedly does well in containers. However, several authors suggested planting several varieties for an extended season. A soilless growing medium for containers, plenty of drainage, and plenty of compost is best. Products developed for azaleas and rhododendrons are appropriate. Two inches of water a week and foliar feeding with seaweed emulsion, or blood meal and cottonseed meal, round out the nutrition needs. Blueberries need consistent water-a drip irrigation system using rainwater, which is less likely to have high salt content, is ideal. Another issue is protection from birds, especially in a home garden, which may only have a few precious plants. Netting works, just be sure to fix it to the ground. I remember friends in St. Louis with 5 huge blueberry shrubs near their swimming pool, which were decimated every year by birds, who left little presents all over the white pool decking. Finally, pruning recommendations varied among the references, but most seemed to favor minimal pruning, essentially removal of dead wood. Enjoy your home grown blueberries!

Recipe:

Grilled Peaches with Blueberries and Honey Roasted Pecans.

(aka Texas July Heaven)

Yield: 4 servings

Ingredients:

4 fresh Texas peaches (not overripe, will fall apart)

Olive oil for brushing

1 cup pecans, very coarsely chopped

2/3 cup local honey

2/3 cup East Texas blueberries

Vanilla ice cream

Halve and pit peaches. Brush cut side of peaches lightly with olive oil. Place cut side down on medium high grill. Grill 2 minutes per side. Meanwhile, place pecans in small saucepan on grill, toast, and add honey. Warm the honey pecans for 2 minutes. Place peach in a bowl, add a scoop of ice cream, sprinkle with blueberries and drizzle the honey pecan sauce over the top. Yum!

Some credit is due-this is a variation of a Bobby Flay dish, in which he uses Greek yogurt and walnuts, and no berries (also delicious).

References:

http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/archives/parsons/publications/blueberries/blueberries.html (TAMU website)

http://www.attra.org/attra-pub/blueberry.html

US Highbush Blueberry Council. http://www.blueberry.org/

http://www.hortmag.com/article/kindsofblueberries/ (article from March, 2009 in Horticulture magazine)

http://www.aces.edu/pubs/docs/A/ANR-1078/ (information about the varieties of rabbiteye blueberries)

December

• Plant onions, shallots
• Plant cool season annuals such as pansies and Johnny Jump-ups
• Plant bulbs (chilled if necessary)
• Plant balled and burlapped trees
• Plan fruit and pecan trees
• Plant shrubs
• Plant refrigerated tulips, etc in the second half of December
• Plant Daffodils, grape hyacinths, and native bulbs anytime.
• Force bulbs indoors
• Compost any healthy leaves/tender plants
• Clean up diseased debris and discard.
• Clean your tools before putting away for winter
• Trim back any perennials as they become dominant and mulch the base
• Prune summer flowering shrubs (crepe myrtle, althea), NOT spring flowering shrubs (azaleas, hydrangeas)
• Consider storing your outdoor cushions away from the squirrels
• Disconnect hoses and get an insulated cover for any spouts
• Order from spring plant/seed catalogs before they run out of the best stuff
• Gather covers for any tender plants and use on frosty nights
• Prepare any new beds for spring/late winter planting, including rose beds. Add plenty of organic material and cover to eliminate weeds
• Don’t forget to water during drought periods

Possumhaw Holly (courtesy of Fine Gardening)

January

• Enjoy feeding the birds
• Start preparing the beds for your cool season vegetables at the beginning of January
• Plant onions, shallots, lettuce, spinach, collards, kale, chard, mustard greens, carrots, radishes cilantro at the end of January (for specific times see http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/archives/parsons/earthkind/ekgarden14.html. )
• Hit the bulb sales in the nurseries-they often have prechilled bulbs left on sale that can still be planted.
• Order spring plants if you haven’t already
• Plan the year for the vegetable garden-rotate crops, review the successes and failures of last year.
• Check out http://texassuperstar.com/index.html for some ideas for what to plant in North Texas
• Flats of spring flowers should be sown in January and February.
• Warm temperature plants-tomatoes, peppers, summer flowers should be sown indoors in late January and early February.
• Sow seeds for plants to sell in the GDOGC plant sale (:
• Order Gladiola corms for February & March planting. Plant in 2 week intervals to prolong the flowering period.
• Keep planting trees and shrubs. When buying them, buy small to medium (4-6’). They are faster to establish and more effective in landscape than larger sizes. Check out proper tree planting and care from the Texas Forest Service. http://texastreeplanting.tamu.edu/TreePlantingTools.html
• Fertilize pansies and other cool annuals with slow release.
• Distribute 5 lbs cotton seed or alfalfa meal per 100 square feet or cornmeal slow release fertilizer product according to label instructions.
• Do not fertilize new trees/shrubs until after they start growing.
• Prune shrubs-First prune dead/damaged branches. Then thin out by removing 1/3 canes/stems at ground level, removing oldest canes only. Then shape the rest of the plant. For more detailed pruning instructions, go here:  http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/landscape/pruning/pruning.html
• Climbing roses should be trained but not pruned in winter. It is always appropriate to remove dead or weak canes. Weave long canes through openings in trellises or arbors and tie them with jute twine or plastic or other plant ties. Securing canes now prevents damage from winter/spring winds, and contributes toward a more refined look to the garden when roses are blooming. Wait until after the spring flowering period to prune climbing or once-blooming shrub roses.
• Hold off on pruning bush roses until February or early March. Use good shears that will make clean cuts. Remove dead, dying, and weak canes. Leave 4 to 8 healthy canes, and remove approximately one-half of the top growth and height of the plant.
• Now is an excellent time to select and plant container-grown roses to fill in those bare spots in your rose garden.
• Continue to monitor for diseased plant material, bagworm pouches, etc and remove.

The weather is cooler-perfect time to work in the garden!

October through November is an excellent time to purchase bulbs while you still have a good selection in the garden center. They may be planted at any time with the exception of tulips and hyacinths. Plant bulbs in well prepared beds so the base of the bulb is at a depth that is three times the diameter of the bulb. In sandy soil, set slightly deeper and in clay soils less deeply.

Chill tulip and hyacinth bulbs in the refrigerator until mid or late December before planting (at least 6 wks). The lower part of the refrigerator is best. Do not leave bulbs in airtight bags during refrigerated storage. Do not store fruit in the same refrigerator as your bulbs; fruit emits ethylene gas which can inhibit blooming in bulbs later on.

Try some native bulbs! they naturalize and return year after year.

Continue to plant perennials.

Shred and compost leaves for more rapid decay. Can also use shredded leaves as mulch over the winter.

Start collecting leaves for the compost pile. Be sure to have extra soil available so that each 6 inch layer of leaves may be covered with several inches of soil. Always wet the layer of leaves thoroughly before adding the soil. Add grass clippings, blood meal, or about one pound of a complete lawn or garden fertilizer to each layer of leaves to provide the necessary nitrogen for decomposition.

Keep Christmas cactus and poinsettia in a sunny spot where night temperatures can be kept below 65° F or if you allow the plant to become excessively dry. They should also be kept in total darkness from 5:00 pm until 8:00 am for about 30 days in October to initiate flower buds.

Too many leaves in your backyard pond will choke out the oxygen and pond critters will die. Before those fall leaves start dropping, try covering the pond with bird netting to catch the leaves. Then remove them before they rot.

Prepare beds for planting pansies when the soil has cooled. They need a well-drained soil and at least a half-day of sun exposure. It is best to use started plants, as seeds are difficult to handle.

If you are planning to save caladium tubers for another year, dig them in late October, and allow to dry in a well ventilated, shady area. After 7 to 20 days, remove leaves and dirt, then pack in dry peat moss, vermiculite, or similar material for storage. Pack tubers so they do not touch each other. Dust with all-purpose fungicide as you pack. Place container in an area where temperature won’t drop below 50 degrees F.

If twig girdlers have worked over your trees so that many twigs and branches aren't dropping, make sure these are collected and destroyed, as the eggs are deposited in that portion of the branch that drops to the ground.

There is still time to divide and reset such perennials as phlox, violets, hollyhocks, irises, day lilies, and shasta daisies.

Consider some late season perennials for next year-Mexican Mint Marigold, Copper Canyon daisy, fall aster, Mexican bush sage, mountain sage and mums.

October is a good time to reduce the insect and disease potential in next year’s garden. Clean up the garden, removing all annuals that have completed their life cycle. Remove the tops of all herbaceous perennials that have finished flowering or as soon as frost has killed the leaves.

Holly plants with a heavy set of fruit often suffer a fertilizer deficiency. An application of complete fertilizer late this month can be helpful and provide a head start next spring.

Don't get in a hurry to prune woody plants. Late December through February is usually the best time to prune them.

However, don't spare the pruning shears when transplanting bare-rooted woody plants. Cut the tops back at least one-third to one-half, to compensate for the roots lost when digging the plant.

Place orders for seeds this month so you will have them available when you are ready to plant. By ordering early, you also have a better chance of getting the varieties you want. In addition to ordering seeds that you are already familiar with, try a few new kinds each year to broaden your garden contents.

November through February is a good time to plant trees and shrubs.

Bring in late-blooming plants such as decorative kalanchoes or Christmas cactus so they may finish flowering in the warmth of the house. Bring stored, potted amaryllis bulbs inside and begin giving light and water around mid-November for Christmas blooming. (However, resist the urge to repot amaryllis each year; they like being pot-bound.)

Reduce the fertilization of indoor plants from late October to mid-March. An exception would be plants in an atrium or a well lighted window.

Drain gasoline from power tools and run the engine until fuel in the carburetor is used up.

Drain and store garden hoses and watering equipment in a readily accessible location. The lawn and plants may need water during a prolonged dry spell. Cover outside water faucets with a foam dome to protect from freezing.

Set out cool-season bedding plants, such as pansies, violas, stock, snapdragons, and dianthus.

Plant last of the cool season vegetables and prepare new beds for planting of more cool season crops in January.

Protect your lawn from excessive winter damage by providing irrigation during dry periods.

Take advantage of good weather to prepare garden beds for spring planting. 

Harvest remaining herbs and vegetables. Green tomatoes will ripen indoors-pick them before the first frost.

submitted by Allison Liddell

adapted from Collin Co. Master Gardeners

Plant, plant, plant!

Some vegetables that can be planted in September/October include:

BEETS (Beta vulgaris):
September 15 - October 1

CABBAGE (Brassica oleracea var. capitata):
September 1 - 15

CABBAGE, CHINESE (Brassica pekinensis):
September 1 - 15

CARROT (Daucus carota var. sativus):
September 1 - October 1

CHARD, SWISS (Beta vulgaris var. cicla):
September 1 - 15

COLLARDS (Brassica oleracea var. acephala):
September 1 - October 1

GARLIC (Allium sativum ):
September 15 - October 15

KALE (Brassica oleracea var. acephala):
August 15 - October 15

LEEKS (Allium ampeloprasum var. porrum ):
October 1 - November 1 (transplants)

LETTUCE, BUTTERHEAD (Lactuca sativa):
September 1 - October 15

LETTUCE, LEAF (Lactuca sativa):
September 1 - October 15

LETTUCE, COS or ROMAINE (Lactuca sativa):
September 1 - October 15

ONION, BULBING (Allium cepa)
September 1 - October 15 (seed)

ONION, BUNCHING [SCALLIONS] (Allium cepa):
September 1 - October 15

PARSLEY

September 1- October 1

PEAS, ENGLISH (Pisum sativum):
September 1 - October 1

RADISH (Raphanus sativus)
September 1 - November 15

RUTABAGA (Brassica napus var. napobrassica):
August 1 - October 15

SPINACH (Spinacia oleracea):
September 1 - October 31

TURNIP (Brassica rapa var. rapifera)
August 1 - October 15

Take a gander at these English gardeners who won the largest vegetable competition!

Other jobs:

Clean out beds of excess debris, but leave leaves to mold/mulch in beds, compost leaves from lawn and debris from healthy plants. Don't tear out all the seedpods and other plant structures-these are food and habitat for birds and animals. They also add winter interest to the garden. Do remove plant debris from any disease-affected perennials.

Plant cool season annuals before the real winter hits so they can become established (violas, etc).

Clean all outdoor furniture and condition outdoor wood furniture, cover furniture not used in winter.

Start a compost pile with leaves and annuals removed from the garden.

Spring-blooming bulbs can be planted. Many bulbs such as tulips and daffodils require refrigerator chilling in Texas before planting-consult your local nursery. Many native Texas bulbs do not require cold storage.

Prepare new beds by covering to kill weeds, then tilling, and adding organic amendments.

Cut back perennials known to reseed if you do not want them to reseed, such as purple coneflower, black-eyed Susan, bog sage.

After the first frost, dig up tender bulbs such as dahlias, caladiums, cannas and gladiolus. Cure in a warm room and then store at approximately 55 degrees F.

Plant a tree.

article submitted by Allison Liddell

photo submitted by Sharon Matthews